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Saturday, July 4
Lefkas, Lefkada

In the morning I walked around town and familiarized myself with the layout, connecting all the dots of the places I visited Friday evening. I located a few books stores I was hoping would have a Greek phrasebook but none of them did. I tried to get one in Dubai before I left but they were backordered and wouldn’t arrive in time before my departure. So my Greek lexicon is still limited to just a few words. It’s more common here for people to be able to speak English than in Italy, and they’re generally better at it, so that helps.

I found a fresh baked snack for breakfast and ate it on a park bench. The weather here is gorgeous. The pastry wasn’t enough after another hour of wandering around so I found a café to sit at and enjoyed their fruit salad with greek yogurt and a local mountain tea with honey. All very nice.

The rest of the day was pretty laid back. I tried to find a laundromat to wash my clothes in but didn’t have any luck. It seemed there was only one in town and they were closed on Saturdays. So I walked around town with my big backpack full of dirty clothes instead, finding shelter in the shade when I could.

In the evening Ross & I found a great place for dinner called The Lighthouse Taverna. It was down a back alley, away from the touristy areas, and, although full of tourists dining there it had a richer traditional feel to it. The food was fantastic but just observing the action of the place was enjoyable entertainment on its own. Soon after we arrived there was a busker with an accordion that played some Greek classics and other standards, visiting the tables as he played to collect some change. Afterwards he moved on, presumably to the next restaurant along the way. The restaurant was very busy. There was a floatilla group of 18 that occupied a table in the centre and that was a huge demand on top of all the other tables for the waiter who was constantly busy serving the tables. It seemed the host/owner was his father. He informed us he’s been in the business since 1979, and it was apparent that he’s lost part of his mind along the way; he was a funny old guy! We would watch him seat a table, then go and move a couple of dirty dishes on another one, then head back out front and talk to people, and all night he just bumbled along, not really accomplishing much, while the young waiter was running off his feet, sweating as he kept things moving. We complimented him on his excellent work when he brought us our dishes of chicken souvlaki. I had also had the fried cheese (saganaki) to start, and Ross had a plate of feta cheese.

After dinner Ross went back to the Pirates Café near our boat to chill for the evening and I wandered around the town square, finding a treat for dessert. It was a crepe filled with strawberries, biscuit, and nutella. A little too sweet for me but still tasted good. Oddly, the crepe restaurant had a British Columbia license plate on the wall. I asked them how they got it and they said someone they knew brought it back with them.

Dale NicholsComment